Some tips on desoldering and removing DIP Sockets?

HooRU · 2025-07-25T17:08:01+00:00

How do you go about safety removing DIP chips/sockets?

HooRU

I was thinking bucket brigade DIPS being reclaimed from non functioning old pedals to go in new ones. Rare items.

HooRU

There is Silicon and Germanium stuff rarer than hen’s teeth that sell for hundreds for pedals.

HooRU

I’ve had pedals with such chips and the sound is incredible.

HooRU

Like Mike Piera’s original Fuzz Face. OMG.

real_aurgathor

HooRU Is there a way to “work” the CIP out without being able to completely desolder?

You can do that with a hot air gun. It’s available for under $100 separately, and it’s included in the Yihua 948-II desoldering station.

HooRU What happens to me Is I get the solder out but just a tiny bit still holds the legs in, despite sucking it well. I though maybe there was a trick to working it out slowly.

At that point you remove the remaining solder with a wicking wire heated by the tip of a soldering iron – or cut the solder bridge with a cutter, if possible.

HooRU There is Silicon and Germanium stuff rarer than hen’s teeth that sell for hundreds for pedals.

You don’t want to try to remove Ge parts unless you have a real desoldering gun or station – they are much-much easier to fry than Si based semiconductors.

A traditional hand-held solder sucker and wicking wire is good for a couple of parts here and there, but you need a real, vacuum operated desoldering gun, hot air, or something better for more than that.

One guy on DSLR had a high end PACE desoldering/rework system costing around $7k or so!!

Splitpair

real_aurgathor I have to put this into the even if it’s true I don’t believe it category.

It took less than a half hour I am now 30 days net with no minimum.

You need to contact them and find out why your account has a minumum.

Splitpair

HooRU I was thinking bucket brigade DIPS being reclaimed from non functioning old pedals to go in new ones. Rare items.

If you know anyone in broadcasting ask them if they have any old Eventide Harmonizer’s they want to part with, the upper board is packed with one or two rows those chips and they are socketed so you can pull them out easy for re-use.

A station I worked at used a couple of 949′'s for profanity delays and shelved them after the central control room was remodeled, I asked if they wanted to sell them and I got em for free.

koira

HooRU
I have not used these but recall seeing it, Here is something else you could try. They are not expensive either.
https://www.amazon.ca/Needles-Desoldering-Electronic-Components-Stainless/dp/B07JZDQNW7/ref=asc_df_B07JZDQNW7?tag=bingshopdesk-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80882915562666&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=5254&hvtargid=pla-4584482479542768&psc=1

Pick the appropriare needle, and push it over leg and thru the pcb hole as you heat the pad. The solder wont stick to the stainless . One at a time patiently and you should get all legs free of solder tacking them in place.
Allow time between legs so the precious part has time to cool. You could attacth a clip to the top of the leg as a heat sink as you work each lead.

MacLeech

HooRU Is there a way to “work” the CIP out without being able to completely desolder?

If you’re disassembling a smaller board, a swift smack of one board edge at an angle on the worktop while the solder is liquid to pop it out of the hole always worked for me.

Splitpair

HooRU I guess the best way to desoler completely is with that Hakko power sucker. I’d love to have one.

These work nicely and are affordable too.

https://www.zoro.com/weller-desoldering-pump-1125-in-l-45-in-w-7874b/i/G3121246/?q=G3121246

Also make sure two of the socket pins are not staked, that is sometimes done to keep the socket in place until the board is soldered.

Splitpair

MacLeech If you’re disassembling a smaller board, a swift smack of one board edge at an angle on the worktop while the solder is liquid to pop it out of the hole always worked for me.

That does work and is a easy to clear a plated through hole too.

Sparkchaser

MacLeech swift smack of one board edge at an angle on the worktop while the solder is liquid to pop it out of the hole always worked for me.

Yes, a good technique and time tested (at least by me). I’ve only ever had the basic tools at home.

koira

MacLeech whacking the board on the bench to desolder, another specialized branch of percussive maintenance

Splitpair

koira whacking the board on the bench to desolder, another specialized branch of percussive maintenance

And if someone is looking your shoulder turning around and whacking the board on their forehead is even more fun. ;-)

real_aurgathor

Splitpair It took less than a half hour I am now 30 days net with no minimum.

I could ask for evidence but I’ll spare you of it this time because it’s a major LULZ either way:

you allegedly create a net 30 account just to show me incorrect on their minimum order
this is just yet another, pulled out of thin air “factoid”

You need to contact them and find out why your account has a minumum.

Because I do not have an account with them.

Splitpair

real_aurgathor Because I do not have an account with them.

Well there’s the problem, no account then either buy $250 in parts or go away, there are a B2B not a Radio Shack.

Splitpair

real_aurgathor I could ask for evidence but I’ll spare you of it this time because it’s a major LULZ either way:

You can ask all you want, but you will not see my account number nor business name as there is no reason to reveal that to you.

Conversely you never presented a iota of information indicating they have a minimum order requirement, other than the fact you never opened a account with them, which might explain why they do not want to do business with you hence the over the top minimum they levied.

real_aurgathor

Splitpair Conversely you never presented a iota of information indicating they have a minimum order requirement,

I posted actual, verifiable information, not just the “because I say so” type of personal evidence. But looks like it’s your usual reading comprehension issue requiring extra explanation. In any case, among other things, I did post a screen shot clearly indicating Rochester’s $300 minimum.

other than the fact you never opened a account with them, which might explain why they do not want to do business with you hence the over the top minimum they levied.

There is no account necessary to order, only $300 minimum and whatever S/H they charge.

Splitpair

real_aurgathor In any case, among other things, I did post a screen shot clearly indicating Rochester’s $300 minimum.

This screen shot.

There is nothing indicated there about a $300 minimum.

Or is it one containing second hand information making the claim Rochester has a $250 minimum?

Seems to me all you have proven is Rochester doesn’t want to deal with hobbyists! Which is “because I say so” type evidence."

koira

HooRU
The worst one i worked on lately is an HK Citation 14 FM tuner made in the 70’s. It has molex style connectors between the chassis harness and various PCB. Like ten, twelve connection pins to some boards. I needed to check semiconductors and recap some of it. Perhaps due to some loose contacts the previous owner had soldered the pins of the connector together making removal of the boards impossible. It took a lot of time and effort to desolder each pin, poking with dental scaling pick tool, prying , banging etc. ended up some of the phenolic was a bit cracked around the connection to a few of the pins. Needed to add jumper wires to restore continuity. It all went back together now without resoldering the pin connections to each other. Works fine again. Sometimes you might have to resort to the fact that the only option for a repair means collateral damage is necessary in order to restore the unit into operation. Just do it as tidy as possible.

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